On the Road Again
Eighteen months ago, I was not at all sure I would ever travel internationally again. This month my world expanded again, as I traveled to Eilean Shona, a small island, in the Hebrides chain in the far west of Scotland. The landscape there is stunning, old and majestic. As you approach the island by boat, you pass Castle Tioram, a former stronghold of the McDonald clan, last occupied 900 years ago.
Castle Tiorem
Eilean Shona is located on Loch Moidart. It has been owned by Vanessa Branson for the last 25 years. She and her family have restored the 125 year old main house, and a number of cottages around the island that now rent to guests looking for an authentic experience in the Scottish isles. (https://www.eileanshona.com) The beauty of the island inspired the story of Peter Pan. J.M. Barrie wrote the story while staying on the island 1904. The island is covered in virgin forests. Stately and majestic silver spruce trees tower above the others. The forest floor is covered in velvet thick green moss. Hiking alone amidst the stillness, I stopped and looked around expecting a fairy of leprechaun to appear. It is that magical. The air quality was pristine. Salty, moist, cool and smelling of the forest. Sam and Dave couldn’t get enough of it!
Looking across Loch Moidart to Eilean Shona
Traveling there was an ordeal, as any travel in the times of Covid seem to be. A covid test prior to travel, and another upon landing in the UK were required. A small hassle, but also there was some comfort in knowing everyone else on the plane had tested negative as well. Yet another test was required to return home prior to the flight home.
The days spent on the island were filled with hiking, writing, mushroom foraging, cooking, whiskey tasting and the occasional early morning dip in the frigid waters (a Vanessa Branson rite of initiation to the island!)
Though Scottish cuisine is hardly renowned among the worlds finest, we ate like kings, mostly enjoying the abundant local shellfish, salmon and flatfish. The oysters, mussels, prawns and scallops were among the finest I’ve ever tasted.
Chef Angus about to teach us how to prepare Dublin Bay prawns
The trip was arranged by my dear friend Peggy Markel. (https://peggymarkel.com) I have traveled with Peggy to six different countries on her culinary and cultural adventures. Every trip has been a unique, educational and always delicious experience. This was her first Scottish adventure and hopefully not the last, as it is a trip i would look forward to doing again. It was such a restorative week. We had an excellent group of like-minded people that were open to all the island had to offer. The hospitality of the staff was incredible given all they have to do to make it happen on a remote island. Picnics on the beach, lunch in an old shepherds cabin, fireside salmon roasts all happened flawlessly.
Angus stirring the mussels while vertically roasting salmon nailed to a board
As I’m back home and reflecting on the week a calm comes over me. I try to remember the air quality, the feel of it in my lungs. The stillness of the forests. The electric green of the moss. The smiles around the table and of course the new friend I made along the way. A special thanks to Peggy for encouraging me to travel again and to Vanessa for making the experience so memorable.
A very happy group of Shona explorers